Kinnaur

Kinnaur is one of my favourite places in Himachal Pradesh. It’s one of those offbeat Himalayan escapes that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a dream, far from the crowds, close to nature, and drenched in serenity. Known for its surreal landscapes, old monasteries, and a unique blend of Hindu and Buddhist cultures, this place has vibes you can’t quite put into words. It’s raw, real, and ridiculously beautiful.

Even if you travel to Spiti, you’d have to cross Kinnaur, giving you a chance to have the best of both worlds. 

In this blog, you will find a comprehensive Kinnaur itinerary that you can follow from Delhi. I have covered the cost, accommodation, and bus timings from Delhi to Kinnaur. You will also find bonus information towards the end.

Also Read My Delhi to Chitkul Guide

P.S. Nako is also a part of Kinnaur district. I have covered it in my Spiti guide as it comes midway.

Location & Altitude

Kinnaur is located in the northeastern part of Himachal Pradesh and borders Tibet in the east. To reach Kinnaur, you would have to travel about 260 kms from Shimla. Being an offbeat place, Kinnaur is adorned with the mighty Sutlej meandering through its valleys and surreal landscapes. It is also known to be the home of the towering Kinner Kailash peak or the winter abode of Lord Shiva.

While you are in Kinnaur, these are the places you can visit, as well: 

Kalpa – 2,960 metres

Sangla – 2,696 metres

Chitkul – 3,450 metres

Best Time to Visit Kinnaur

Kinnaur looks out of a painting and is picturesque throughout the year. If I had my way, I would visit this hill station every month. Having said that, it depends on what you would like to see. 

If you want to see flowers and walk through the colourful apple orchards, April is the best time to go, but if experiencing snowfall is on your bucket list, February is the best time.

  • April to May – Flowering season
  • June to August – Apple season
  • Feb to March – Winter season

Ideally, April to October is the best time to visit Kinnaur. 

However, during the peak season, do check if the roads are open because accessibility can become an issue at this time. 

If you are planning to go to Spiti, read our guide here – Spiti Travel Guide

Kinnaur Itinerary

Days 0 and 1: Delhi to Reckong Peo

How to Reach Reckong Peo?

Delhi – Chandigarh – Reckong Peo

I took an overnight HRTC bus from Delhi to Chandigarh first and then hopped onto a deluxe bus from Chandigarh to Reckong Peo. There are multiple HRTC buses from Chandigarh that leave in the morning and evening – around 4:40 AM, 5:50 PM, 6 PM, and 7 PM. The evening buses are more relaxed and better if you want to enjoy the scenic ride without the sun glaring at you.

Alternatively, you can also take an ordinary bus directly from Delhi (ISBT Kashmiri Gate) at around 8 PM, which takes approximately 18–19 hours to reach Reckong Peo. The bus fare is around INR 1033/- as of now, and yes, the long journey does test your patience, but the views after Shimla are totally worth it!

Note: Ladies get a 50% discount on HRTC bus tickets!

Where to Stay in Reckong Peo?

I would suggest you find a hotel close to the bus stand as you would have to leave for Sangla/Chitkul the very next day. There are many budget hotels just outside the bus stand, with prices ranging between INR 500 – INR 1500.

Reckong Peo Bus stand, Kinnaur Travel Guide
Reckong Peo Bus Stand

Day 2: Reckong Peo to Sangla

How to Reach?

By Bus:

HRTC operates regular bus services between Reckong Peo and Sangla. The typical departure times are 8:30 AM​, 12:30 PM​ and 4:30 PM​. The journey takes approximately 2 hours, traversing scenic mountain routes. 

By Taxi:

For a more flexible and comfortable journey, you can hire a taxi near the Reckong Peo bus stand. The cost typically ranges from ₹2,500 to ₹3,000, but prices can vary based on the season and negotiation. 

By Shared Taxi:

Shared taxis or jeeps are a budget-friendly option, especially if you are travelling solo. They operate from Reckong Peo to Sangla, on the basis of per-seat costs, which are significantly lower than hiring a private taxi. 

What to do in Sangla?

Sangla is absolutely beautiful. You can enjoy the village walk over here, visit the Sangla monastery and visit the nearby Kamru Village. There is 1000 years 1000-year-old Kamru Fort, which is also one of the oldest in Himachal Pradesh.

Kamru Fort – Situated ~2-3 KMs from Sangla, this Fort and the view from here are marvellous. You would have to climb several steps to reach here. Entry inside this fort is quite unique. An inspector (guard) will give you a Kinnauri cap and then tie a cloth around your waist. The fort has a beautiful wooden balcony along with an idol of Kamakhya Devi, who is believed to be the presiding deity here. Photography inside the temple area is usually not allowed, so make sure to ask beforehand. The entire setting, with pine forests in the backdrop and a mix of history and mythology, makes this place totally worth the climb.

Note that women who are on their menstrual cycle are not allowed to enter the fort.

Day 3: Sangla to Chitkul

How to Reach Chitkul?

Chitkul is just around 20 km from Sangla and is the last inhabited village near the Indo-Tibet border. You can either take a local/shared taxi or hitch a ride (yes, that’s still a thing in the mountains!). Shared cabs usually leave in the morning from Sangla and cost about ₹100–₹150 per person. 

Alternatively, board the bus that leaves from Reckong Peo for Chitkul, which will take 45 minutes to an hour. 

I left for Chitkul early in the morning and then took the last bus at 3 PM that leaves for Reckong Peo from Chitkul.

What to do in Chitkul?

Chitkul is the best place to slow travel. Unwind from the hustle of life and go for a village walk or café hopping. The best thing to do in Chitkul is actually to do nothing. 

But if you want to spend more time in Chitkul, read my Delhi to Chitkul Guide.

Day 4: Kalpa & Suicide Point (Roghi)

How to Reach?

Kalpa is just half an hour away from Reckong Peo. You can easily get a bus that operates every 15 minutes from the main bus stand.

What to do in Kalpa?

Kalpa is really, really gorgeous! It comprises monasteries, temples and the stunning view of the sacred Kinnaur Kailash range. The view is every bit worth it when the sun hits the peaks during sunrise and sunset. 

You can walk through the apple orchards and reach the famous Suicide Point near the Roghi Village.

Just ask the locals about the walking route to the Suicide Point; it hardly takes 15 minutes.

If you have some more time, trek to the Chaka meadows to reach the tranquil Chaka Lake. 

Where to Stay in Kalpa?

I stayed at Kalpa Deshang. The rooms were cosy with breathtaking views of Kalpa from the balcony. 

However, if you are travelling on a budget, then there are several homestays starting at INR 500.

Day 5: Reckong Peo to Delhi

You can either take a direct bus to Delhi that leaves early in the morning or take a deluxe bus at 1:30 PM to Chandigarh.

Alternatively, you can board the last bus at 6 PM for Shimla. 

Note: Check the bus timings as these may vary depending on the season. 

Planning a Solo Trip to Kinnaur? Read This – Solo Travel Tips

The Map I Followed

As you can see, Chitkul and Sangla are a little far from Reckong Peo. You can visit Kalpa and nearby places if you are short on time.

Connectivity

Reckong Peo/Kalpa – All major mobile networks, including Jio, Airtel, Vodafone, and BSNL/MTNL, operate here. Jio offers the best connectivity, followed by Airtel. 

Sangla – Jio and Airtel provide the best connectivity, while Vodafone’s service is unreliable.

Chitkul – Only BSNL/MTNL operates in Chitkul. But the internet connection is poor, even if you are using BSNL/MTNL.

ATMs and Petrol Pumps in Kinnaur

ATMs are available only in Reckong Peo and Sangla. Hence, do not forget to carry cash from Delhi or Chandigarh as ATMs are scarce here. 

Petrol pumps are located in Sangla, Reckong Peo and Powari. Ensure that your vehicles are refuelled at these stations.

Accommodation in Kinnaur

Reckong Peo

There are many hotels near the bus stand. You can ask the locals or shopkeepers for cheaper stays. This will go easy on your pocket, but if you would prefer something nicer, you can check out any of the apps. 

Chitkul/Batseri

You can either stay in Zostel or opt for a homestay. I chose to stay in a nearby village called Batseri, as it was quite secluded. I stayed in Hotel Batseri, which was amazing, comfortable and beautiful.

Kalpa

I stayed in Kalpa Deshang, where I was able to enjoy the entire view of Kalpa. This hotel has an attached restaurant as well.

Typical Cost

Homestays/Hotels: You will find rooms starting from INR 500, which are decent for an overnight stay. However, prices can go up to INR 2,899 per night, depending on the amenities and season.  

Bus Cost: A journey from Delhi to Reckong Peo will cost you between INR 950 and INR 1,400, depending on the bus type and booking time. Buses are indeed a budget-friendly option for travellers. ​ There are many options through which you can book the buses, such as HRTC, redBus, MakeMyTrip, etc, on their online platforms. 

Food: There are many restaurants in Reckong Peo and Kalpa offering a wide range of options. A meal will typically cost you around INR 150- INR 300. However, prices may vary based on the establishment and menu choices.

If you want to know how you should pack for Kinnaur, read my guide here.

You can see my camping essentials over here.

Bonus

I was able to explore a few “lesser” known places in Kinnaur. I don’t have a guide for this one as I explored these places with a local. All I can do is give you names, and this will be your little treasure hunt:

Telangi Village

The village is beautiful, and I visited a ghost temple here. Yes! An actual ghost temple. And it is said that the ghost is locked in the temple and is released in the month of January for 12 days.

Kande – YashkaTang – Kotang-tcho circuit

This stretch lies at a height of 4,200 meters and does not have a direct pathway to climb it. There was no one else over here. Also, there is a place at Kotang-tcho where the villagers come and pray for their beloved ones who are no longer alive.

Kinnaur Travel Guide
Kinnaur

Kinnaur is my favourite go-to place in Himachal, and I have no doubt that it will become your favourite as well. Let me know if this blog helped you in the comments below, and ask any queries. I love answering questions!

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Judecia Silveira
Judecia Silveira
6 years ago

This is great…I’m going to kinnKin in march

Anurag kumar
Anurag kumar
5 years ago

Di agar November mein jayenge toe apple dekhno ko milega??

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Anurag kumar

November mein thoda mushkil hai! Abhi season hai.

Gurdeep Singh
6 years ago

Nice Place to visit. Thanks for sharing

Neethu
Neethu
6 years ago

When did you take this trip?

nomllers
6 years ago
Reply to  Neethu

In April 🙂

shubhekalka
shubhekalka
6 years ago

Beautiful place really. Very informative indeed!! Thanks for sharing.

Bharat Dua
Bharat Dua
6 years ago

So informative, nicely done !!

nomllers
6 years ago
Reply to  Bharat Dua

Thank you 🙂

Sujoy Haldar
Sujoy Haldar
5 years ago
Reply to  nomllers

What about middle month of February??

Bharat Dua
Bharat Dua
6 years ago

Want to ask couple of things:

1.What would be better, to go via chandigarh / shimla or direclt to Reckong Peo as that Bus reaches at 1500 Hrs next day?
2. If we want to cut-short to 04 days, what can be skipped?

Thanks 🙂

nomllers
6 years ago
Reply to  Bharat Dua

1. I have never taken a bus from Shimla and Chandigarh. I go directly from Delhi because I know I can travel for 20 hours straight and do not get tired 🙂
It depends on your body, how much it can take it! If you think travelling directly would be a problem then spend a day in Shimla.

2. 4 days including travel? You can miss Chakha trek and cover both Sangla and Chitkul within a day. You can read Chitkul’s guide here – http://www.nomllers.com/chitkul-travel-guide/

Hope this helps!

Ayush wadh
Ayush wadh
5 years ago

I have 7 days with me and my car . Me and my partner were never into main stream commercialised over populated places. Most probably heading to Kinnaur in the Third week of June this year. Any kind of permits we’d require for my private vehicle? Any places not to miss ? Should we try and cover Nako and Kaza from Spiti circuit within these 7 days or keep them for another time suduri only Spiti circuit?

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Ayush wadh

Hi Ayush

Glad that you are visiting this place. It is beautiful! Since you are driving I think you have a lot of flexibility to cover a few extra places. I would suggest you go till Nako, as Nako is a part of Kinnaur. Kaza is very far away and that you should only cover while doing the Spiti circuit. You do not need any permit to visit Kinnaur or to get your private car. Do not miss out on Kalpa and Chitkul. You can also read our Chitkul guide here – https://www.nomllers.com/chitkul-travel-guide/

Bhoomika Sharma
Bhoomika Sharma
5 years ago

Hey! Lovely post. Do any hrtc buses leave in the morning from Chitkul to Chandigarh directly?

nomllers
5 years ago

Hey Bhoomika, thank you 🙂

Yes, there is one that leaves at 4 PM. You can also refer our Chitkul guide here – https://www.nomllers.com/chitkul-travel-guide/

Chitra Pandey
Chitra Pandey
5 years ago

Wonderful post. This blog has an amazing information about the destination of Delhi and near by places beautiful visiting spot……and captures very impressive photos.

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Chitra Pandey

Thank you!!

Harshal Jain
Harshal Jain
5 years ago

Hi there thanks for sharing these details they were very informative. Wanted to know are there any scooty/activa rental options in Reckong peo or Sangla.
Will it be good to cover the distance from Reckong peo to Chitkul on a scooty?

harshal jain
5 years ago

HI there, the post is very informative and thanks for sharing it.
Wanted to ask couple of questions.
1)Are there any scooty/ activa renting option either in Reckong Peo or Sangla.
2)Would it be good to travel to chitkul form Reckong on a scooty?
3)Any cheap stay/Dorms in Sangla for a day.

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  harshal jain

Thank you Harshal 🙂 1. I do not think there are. At least I did not see any stores that do so 2. Most of the roads are in good condition but there are a few patches where a scooty might be a headache, not to forget there are also stretches where the path is a little steeper. If you are going to this place during the monsoon season then driving on a scooty will be a big no 3. In Sangla, there is a Sangla guest house which is very cheap. For other information you can read Chitkul’s guide… Read more »

SOUMYAJEET GHOSAL
SOUMYAJEET GHOSAL
5 years ago

is there any local bus or any other mode of transport from sangla / chitkul to reckong peo in the early morning ?

nomllers
5 years ago
Sunny Wadhwani
Sunny Wadhwani
5 years ago

this trip in october?

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Sunny Wadhwani

Perfect 🙂

Deepinder Choudhary
Deepinder Choudhary
5 years ago

we are planning to visit kinnaur. we are driving from delhi on 4th of july 2019. can you please suggest on weather conditions in july. as i am afraid that the rain should not be a spoiler.

KARTIKAY SHARMA
KARTIKAY SHARMA
5 years ago

Man, I’m planning to do this on 4th April too. Wanna tag along?

Suresh Gambhir
Suresh Gambhir
5 years ago

I am planning to visit kinnaur in the month of mid October. Please suggest me, is it right time to visit ? And what about the weather n temperature at that time..

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Suresh Gambhir

Yes Suresh 🙂 Perfect time as no landslides etc. It will be very cold though since it lies in the upper region of Himalayas, so do carry warm clothes

bestwebsitedesigncompany337762752
bestwebsitedesigncompany337762752
5 years ago

Thank you so much. loved to read successful blogging.Thanks for sharing this article.
Was helpful and informative.This helped me a lot.

Saurabh Kumar
Saurabh Kumar
5 years ago

Hi! I want to go with few of my friends in December. Will that be a good time to go Kinnaur?
Also we are not planning to book accommodations prior to the trip. We will book everything while travelling. Can we get rooms easily over there?

nomllers
5 years ago
Reply to  Saurabh Kumar

Hi Saurabh

Yes it is but it will be very very cold and you might find a lot of snow so go prepared. And yes rooms are easy to find 🙂

Amit Samantara
Amit Samantara
4 years ago

Seen your YouTube video and this editorial, thanks for providing brief info

Neha
Neha
4 years ago

Hi, very informative! I am planning this trip in the last week of March..will you recommend with 5 year old?